Zion Route Beta
Over the course of many years and repeated trips to Zion, I began keeping my own personal binder of route information in Zion. The result is this page, which is a long list of information about grades, first ascent history, route location, and the rumors, heresay, and such that gets said about different routes. When possible, I have included outside links to trip reports, topos, and sometimes, my own personal route descriptions. The list is far from complete but it's a start.
Zion Beta - Information about camping, eating, etc.
Published beta on Zion routes - A list of published beta on Zion routes in books, magazines, and online.
Route Information - Areas are organized, approximately, from Springdale to the Temple of Sinewava.
Eagle Crags - Mount Kinesava - West Temple - The Three Marys - The Watchman - Gatekeeper Wall - Bridge Mountain - Pine Creek - Pine Creek Boulders - Tunnel Crags - The Last Switchbacks - Ashtar Command Tower - Cragmont - Checkerboard Mesa - Crazy Quilt - The East Temple - Mt. Spry - Angelino Wall (aka Apex Wall) - The Streaked Wall - Right Twin Brother - Mountain of the Sun - The Sentinel - Abraham - Isaac - Mt. Moroni - LadyMountain - MountMajestic - CathedralMountain - Practice Cliffs - Red Arch Mountain - ZionLodge - The Spearhead - West Rim Trail - Great White Throne - Great White Throne Base - Cable Mountain - Weeping Rock - Muralla Del Sol - Cerberus Gendarme - The Organ - Angels Landing - The Minotaur - Moonlight Buttress - Bill and Bill's Wall - Desert Shield - The Leaning Wall - Forbidden Wall - Temple of Sinewava
Kolob Terraces area
Kolob Canyons - separate page coming soon.
Eagle Crags - These are the jagged spires visible on your right as you approach Springdale. They are approached from Rockville. There are a number of "desert tower style" climbs and they seem to be a worthwhile objective, although you probably didn't come to Zion to climb them. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/zion_national_park/eagle_crag/105716845
Tooele Tower
- Aunt Jemima - II 5.10a - FA: Todd Stephens and Troy Anderson. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/zion_national_park/eagle_crag/105976912
Mount Kinesava is the impressive wall on your left when driving towards Springdale. Best approach is via the Chinle Trail. The trailhead is located off of Anasazi Way across from the Doggy Dude Ranch.
- King Corner V 5.10 A3+ - FA: Mike Baker & Bob Wader, March 1994
- Plumbline V 5.9 A3 - FA: Larry Derby, Mike Weiss & Billy Westbay, March 1975. This is the giant corner that cuts through the middle of Mt. Kinesava and looks super classic.
- Arrakis
- Jolly Green Jam Crack IV 5.10 C1 - FA: Kirby Spangler, November 1999. Almost all free.
- Cowboy Ridge, III 5.7 - See Climbing #???.
- East Face, Class 4 -
- Free Lhasa - new free route by Cedar Wright and Renan Ozturk.
Description from Summit Post.
- Gettin' Mo' Western VI 5.11+ - FA: Darren Cope and Brad Quinn, October 1990, FFA: Doug Byerly and Doug Hall, October 1993.
- Full Steam Ahead VI 5.10 A4 - FA: Ammon McNeely, February 1999. Topo from BigWall.com.
- Back Where It All Begins VI 5.10+ A3+ FA: Drew Spalding and John Rzeczyeki.
- Arc Rating? - Route by two Spanish guys.
- Southeast Ridge 5.0 - It's a class 3 scramble with one 5.0 pitch. Approached via the Springdale dump.
- Southwest Ridge, III 5.8
- I have heard of one or two other routes that have been completed on the West Temple by Springdale locals but I don't know anything else.
Description from Summit Post.
The Watchman is the prominent peak east of Springdale.
- The Vigil IV 5.11 - FA: Dave Jones and Mark Austin, 1990, FFA: Dave Jones and Conrad Anker, May 1992.
- Ivory Coast III 5.12a - FA: Unknown, either Lynn Wheeler or Conrad Anker.
- Hue and Cry IV 5.11a - FA: Dave Jones and Glen Rink, October 1995.
- The Silmaril V 5.10 A2 or 5.12R, 10 pitches - FA: Unknown, FFA: Mike Anderson with Brian Smoot, March 24, 2007. A few sections of aid. http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/andersonfreesthree/
- Mythical Kings & Iguanas, III 5.10 - FA: Bill Robbin and Brian Smoot, March 23, 1985. Description and topo at Visitor Center.
- Obscurity Traverse Route, II 5.7 - FA: Vicki and Pat McGrane, May 10, 1978. On north buttress. Description and topo at Visitor Center.
- Final Exam Hell, II 5.8 - FA: Brad Tansil. South dihedral of the prominent buttress on the northwest face of the Watchman. Description and topo at Visitor Center.
- Pie For Dinner, IV 5.10 - FA: Randy Aton and Scott Fischer, April 18, 1978. Description at Visitor Center.
- Cradle to Grave, V 5.11 C2 - FA: Dave Jones and Brian Smoot, May 2004. On northwest face. Topo at Visitor Center.
- West Face, Class 4 - Description from Summit Post.
First major wall East of the Watchman. Hike from the NPS shuttle bus storage facility on the east side of the Watchman Campground.
- The Locksmith Dihedral IV 5.11+ C1 or 5.12-, 8 pitches - FA: Dave Jones, Brian Smoot & Chris Rowins, April 2005. FFA: Mike Anderson with Brian Smoot and Colby Wayment, February 17, 2007. http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/andersonfreesthree/
- The Gatekeeper Crack, V 5.10 A2 - FA: Dave Jones, Brian Smoot & Chris Rowins, October 2006.
- Gentleman's Agreement IV 5.9 A2 FA: Ron Olevsky and Scott Fischer, April 1982.
or
- Gentleman's Agreement V 5.9 A2 FA: Danny Farber, Andy Walker, and Ron Olevsky, March 1981. On Mount Nemea.
I've found this conflicting information about this route.
Another new route reported in the American Alpine Journal. Need to check again. Year?
- Also, prominent long ridge traverse completed in late 90s (?). Interesting topo of this adventurous climb is available at Visitor Center. FA: Dan Stih & Ron Raimonde. Also mentioned in Climbing issue # ?, the issue with Zion ridge climbs.
Angelino Wall (aka Apex Wall) - left or south east side of Leaning Wall/Bee Hives.
- Drop Zone VI 5.8 A4+ - FA: Dougald McDonald & Chris McNamara, November 27 to December 1, 1996.
- Hello Mary Lou 5.11 A1 or 5.13-. FA: Dave Jones. FFA: Mike Anderson and Eric Coleman on March 16, 2007 - free with short aid section. Dave Jones says this is the best route he put up in Zion, which says a lot. Looks like it goes all free at 5.12, according to Visitor Center topo information. http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/andersonfreesthree/
I have heard that Brian McCray and Ammon McNeely have established several long free routes in the area of the Angelino Wall but I know nothing more. I believe they are on the walls left of Hello Mary Lou.
- Rodeo Queen VI 5.7 A3 - FA: Conrad Anker & Mugs Stump, Apr. 1990. Recently (Feb. 06) was done in a day (from Rubicon Ledge - the midway ledge) by Chris McNamara and Ammon McNeely. Sounds like a hard route. Super Topo report from Chris McNamara.
- Tales of the Scorpion VI 5.10 A3+ - FA: Dave Webster, Jeff Mayhew & Rick Nelson, April 1990. Mountain Project beta.
- Latitudes VI 5.10 A4+ - FA: Paul Gagner & Eric Brand, May 1994. Done in a day (from Rubicon Ledge) by Ammon McNeely and Brian McCray. Topo from BigWal.com.
- Farmer Brown - to the right of the Streaked Wall and also to the right of the waterfall I believe. I think this was done by Nate Brown and Joe French and/or Eric Draper, but I can't remember.
There is a relatively easy, adventurous route (checking in at around 5.6, I think) up Bridge Mountain to gain access to the thin arch viewable from the main canyon. Route descriptions available at the Visitor Center. Better information and pictures may be available at the Zion climbing shop. Additionally, there is an old Zion backcountry book that has information.
- Hejira, IV 5.10 A1 - FA: Jim Beyer and Misa Giesey, fall 1979. Topo at Visitor Center.
- Party (grade and rating unknown) - FA: Scott Fischer and Joel Hladick. Description at Visitor Center.
- Desert Alpine, VI 5.11 A2- - FA: Brian Bird and Eric Draper, September/October 1998. Northwest face of Bridge Mountain. Topo at Visitor Center.
- Golden Gate, III 5.8 via the easiest variation or IV 5.9 or 5.10. - FA: Andy Carson and Mike Weiss. Description at Visitor Center.
- Springwater Chimney, V 5.8 A2 - FA: Tom Merill and Bob Sullivan. West face. Description at Visitor Center.
- Master Blaster - location ? - on Mt. Spry (?)
- Never Again III 5.10 - FA: Gordon Seibel and Kevin Bochne, October 1974.
- The Headache II 5.10 - FA: Brian Smith and Dana Geary, September 1975. Classic free climb. Description and topo from High Fidelity Lounge.
- Migraine 5.11+R - FA: Paul Tureki and Nancy Pfeiffer, October 1988.
- Nervous Tension 5.10+ - FA: Paul Tureki and Nancy Pfeiffer, October 1988.
- Tanio's Tight Hands 5.11 - FA: John Tanio
- Boring Crack 5.10 - FA: David Breashears
- Wheels on Fire 5.12 Toprope - FA: Lynn Wheeler, 1991.
- Unnamed 5.9+ - FA: Unknown.
- Excedrine 5.10 - FA: Mark Austin.
- Monkey Love 5.9 - FA: Dean Woods and Alex McAfee, July 2000.
- Lodestone Tower, IV or V A3 (?) - Jeff Lowe route, as featured in Clean Aid Climbing video made by Jeff Lowe and Ron Olevsky.
- The Maneater II 5.11 C2 - FA: John Tanio.
- Project
- Ashtar Command 5.9 - FA: John Tanio - Good route. Climb the nice splitter crack in the center of the left or northwest (?) face to a bolted belay stance. Second pitch traverses right and then to the top of the tower. Second pitch is fully bolted and also takes a few cams, Camalots #.3-.75(?).
- Feeling Minnesota 5.8 - FA: Joe French and Alex McAfee, January 2000.
- Ground Control 5.10+R/X - FA: John Varco, 1999.
- Project
A recently developed area in Zion. It is located underneath the tunnel and is approached from the same point as for the Headache. It features numerous multi-pitch routes up to 6 pitches. One of the famous routes is John Varco's Picking on the Fat Kid, famously pictured in a Patagonia ad a few years ago (2001 or 2002?). Another Cragmont climb was featured in the Gallery section of Climbing Magazine's Trad issue in 2005. There are several high quality lines here. Detailed route information and topos can be found at the Zion Climbing Center climbing shop in Springdale.
-Cryptic Egyptian (?), 5.10 - FA: Brian Bird and ??. 3 pitches and maybe more. Good.
These climbs might be part of what is considered Cragmont.
- The Rainbow Roof 5.11a - FA: Brad Quinn.
- Pokalakota (A Good Day to Die) 5.11b - FA: Brad Quinn and Mark Austin.
- Kung-Fu Figher II 5.11a - FA: Joe French, Brian Bird, and Eric Draper, 1999. Description and topo from High Fidelity Lounge.
A number of routes climb this park landmark. East of the tunnel.
Another slabby face east of the tunnel.
Other Climbs on East Side of Park
Aires Butte
- Ariel Trad Climb (SE Face), 5.6 - Description from Summit Post.
"Progeny Peak" UN 6275 - Description from Summit Post.
- Non-Direct from the SW, Class 3
- Direct from the SW, 5.6
- Lovelace a.k.a. The Fang Wall V 5.10 C2+ or 5.12 - FA: Dave Jones, Gary Grey, Mark Pey, and Ron Olevsky, 1983, FFA: Topher Donahue and Kennan Harvey, April 1995. It sounds like this route has gained some poularity. Expect a fairly arduous approach of about 4 hours, making a one day ascent difficult. Also, it sounds difficult to fix the first pitches because of the traversing nature of the first pitch.
- The Fang or Fang Spire, IV 5.9+ A3+ or IV/V 5.8+ C3 - FA: Kyle Copeland and John Middendorf, May 1988. Prominent tower on the left side of the East Temple. Topo from BigWall.com
- Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion IV+ 5.10+ C2+ - FA: Hugh O'Neall and Dave Jones, November 1986. This route is supposed to be very adventurous, featuring wide cracks and runout pitches. There's not a single bolt on the route, including belays, making retreat difficult or at the least, expensive. Topo from BigWall.com.
- Uncertain Fates V 5.11+ C1 - FA: Stacy Allison and Dave Jones, November 1986.
- Freezer Burn IV 5.11+ - FA: Dave Jones and Stacy Allison, 1985, FFA: Lynn Wheeler and Mugs Stump (Free or Burn), February 1991. I have heard that this is a quality, albeit difficult, route. It's a striking looking line to look at.
- The 10th Division IV 5.10 C1 - FA: Dave Jones and Brad Quinn, October 1988. I have heard that this route is not very good (poor rock quality, etc.) but it's second or third hand information. Topo from BigWall.com.
- Sandblaster IV 5.11 - FA: Jeff Lowe and Mark Wilford. Reportedly of great quality. Parts of this route may have been done previously by Jim Beyer.
- Dancing with Zully 5.10, 5 pitches - FA: Dave Jones. W. face of Mt. Spry.
-Moria III 5.8 - FA: Jim Beyer & Bob Sullivan, May 1979. Northwest face of Mt. Spry, 5 pitches.
- Black Crack (Bites Back) III 5.9 - FA: Jim Beyer & Misa Giesey, fall 1979. Northwest face of Mt. Spry, 5 pitches.
- Peyote Dreams VI 5.10 A3+ - FA: Eric Rasmussen & Sean Plunkett, Nov. 1995 (? - according to Bjornstad) or 1994(? - according to Middendorf).
-Levels of Doom VI 5.9+ A3+ - FA: Eric Rasmussen & Amanda Tarr, Sept. 1997.
-Los Banditos VI 5.8 A4 - FA: Luke Miller & Chris McNamara, May 1999.
-Lost in Transit V 5.11 A4 - FA: Steve Chardon & Dave Jones, Oct. 1983.
-The Ancient Gallery V 5.10 A3 - FA: Chris Sircello & Chris Rasmussen, Apr. 1992.
- The Tao of Light VI 5.10 A3 - FA: Paul Turecki and John Middendorf, 1994.
- Eye Shadow
- East FAce via Employee (aka Lodge) Canyon, Class 4+ - Description from Summit Post.
- Birdbeak Spire IV 5.10 A2 - FA: Will Oxx and John Middendorf, 1993. Middle canyon, west side.
-There are a few routes across the canyon from Abraham and Isaac. The Sentinel is one of the formations but on the large face there are three or four routes, including a route named Zion's Curtain (unfinished ?).
- The Radiator VI 5.10 A4 - FA: John Middendorf and Walt Shipley, May 1990. Topo from BigWall.com.
- Stigmata VI 5.11R A4+ - FA: Brian McCray and Kurt Arend, September 2 - 7, 2000. Topo from BigWall.com.
- Dr. Thunder VI 5.10 A3 - FA: Eric Draper, Joe French and Boulos Ayad, 1999. Starts 200 yards right of The Radiator.
- Also a route several hundred feet right of The Radiator that follows thin cracks and then meets up with The Radiator for the last few pitches.
- Sands of Time VI 5.10 A3+ - FA: Rick Lovelace and Paul Gagner, December 1994. Topo from BigWall.com - also route photo.
- Lowe Route a.ka. Southeast Buttress V 5.10 A3 - FA: Jeff Lowe, John Weiland, Mike Weiss, and Wick Beavers, February 1972. Topo from BigWall.com - also route photo.
-Freeloader 5.12d - new free route put up by Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem in November 2005. Starts on Tricks then takes a new line from the midway ledge. They had originally tried to free the Lowe Route but a 5.11+R pitch deterred them.
- Tricks of the Trade V 5.11a A2 or C2+- - FA: Brad Quinn, Bill Hatcher, and John Middendorf, April 1993. Big and classic. Not for the faint of heart. Description and topo from High Fidelity Lounge. Topo, route description and story in Fifty Favorite Climbs. Topo from BigWall.com - also route photo.
- Iron Like a Lion in Zion V 5.11+ - FA: David Bloom and Rodney Blakemore, 1999.
- Middle Earth VI 5.11c A4 - FA: Eric Rasmussen and Luke Miller, November 1997.
- Road to Gomorrah, 5.11 (?) - another Brian Smoot route that shares part(s) of Voice From the Dust. The top goes left around the arete from the last pitch of Voice From the Dust.
- Plan B 5.11 C2 (or 5.8 C1 ?) or 5.12b - FFA: Jeff Hollenbaugh & ?. Description and topo from High Fidelity Lounge. Description and photos from Mountain Project.
- Molecules of Emotion IV 5.10+ - I think this starts in the chimney/corner system right of Plan B.
- There are anchors on another route between Molecules of Emotion and the Smoot-Ellison.
- Smoot-Ellison a.k.a. The Crack in the Cosmic Egg V 5.10 A3 - FA: Brian Smoot and others. Description and photos from Mountain Project.
- Voice From the Dust IV 5.11 - FA: Brian Smoot and others - 8 pitches, Far S. end of Mt. Moroni - this is a recent route which is pretty good. Description and photos from Mountain Project.
- North Spur III 5.7 - FA: Curt Haire & Wes Hall, July 1975. A long route described in Bjornstad's book. Description from SummitPost.
Mount Majestic or Emerald Star Mountain
- Emerald Star Majesticus V 5.8X A3 (or 5.5 A3) - FA: Doug Byerly & James Funsten, Oct. 7-10, 1993. Five pitches technical and a lot of 3rd class.
- Leaving Llamaland, V+ 5.7 A2+, 1000 feet) - FA: Amanda Tarr, solo, May 30 - June 3, 1998. Two buttresses right of Emerald Star Majesticus. See American Alpine Journal 1999, page 26. Trip report from Amanda Tarr on BigWall.com.
- Voodoo Rooves Route ???? I think this is an error, most likely Voodoo Roofs
- Foolz Buttress (NE Buttress of Cathedral Mountain) III 5.8R A0 - Sounds like a fun, adventurous outing.
- Angel's Finger 5.9 or 5.10 - on Cathedral Mountain or in Refrigerator Canyon (?).
Section of cliff with numerous single pitch lines, across from Mt. Moroni. Some good stuff which is also able to be toproped.
- Bits and Pieces IV 5.11b - FA: Dave Jones & ?. Good route and mostly moderate free climbing.Mountain Project description.
- Wigs In Space IV 5.9 C1 or 5.11 - FA: Cameron Burns & ?. According to the McAfee guide this sounds like a good route. Looking at the topo and the rock and it doesn't look all t hat classic. Need to climb it to find out. Topo in Visitor Center. Mountain Project description.
- The Avatar, VI 5.8 A4 - Michael Hill and Kevin Jones, July 21-26, 1996. Goes up left side of arch and then out on to face.
- Ironclads, V 5.10 A2 - M. Hill, D. Suess, and J. Suess, October 1996. Right of Shune's.
- I think there's another route by Brian McCray and Kurth "Burt" Arend that goes up the middle of the face under the arch.
- Shunes Buttress IV 5.11c - FA: Steve Chardon and Dave Jones, 1980. FFA: Conrad Anker and Dave Jones, 1992. Classic, what more can you say. Many people say it is the best free route in Zion. Description and topo from High Fidelity Lounge. Mountain Project description.
- Rites of Passage IV 5.11 - FA: Geoff Scherer & Dave Jones, April 21-22, 1994. 9 pitches. According to Dave Jones this is a good route. On the right side of the arch that makes Red Arch Mountain. Topo in Visitor Center.
There is a route that goes up the lefthand side of the prominent arch on Red Arch Mountain. Topo in Visito Center and some bolts can be seen with a spotting scope. Looks wild.
Not quite sure what this formation is called but it is behind the Zion Lodge and has seen some new route development in recent years.
- Riddler's Delight 5.10 - 7 pitches, behind Zion Lodge
- Made To Be Broken 5.10 b or c - FA: Joe French. 5-pitch sport route above the Zion Lodge. Good route.
- Iron Messiah III 5.10 - FA: Ron Olevsky solo, 1988. FFA: ? - Great long route and pretty much all there is for long, moderate free climbing in Zion. Description and topo from High Fidelity Lounge.
- Up V 5.12 - FA: Virginie Hernandez & Dennis Roy (from France), Oct. 16-17, 2002. Right of Iron Messiah. A lot of 5.10R pitches.
- Medieval Wall, V 5.9 A3+ - Brian McCray and Ammon McNeely, March 22-24, 2004.
- Voodoo Roofs II 5.10+ - Looks good.
Beta from SummitPost.
- Northwest Face V or VI? 5.9 A3 - FA: Fred Beckey and others (?).
- Dodge'm, 5.8 A3 - around 22 pitches, all moderate free climbing until the last pitch, which is A3. Topo in Visitor Center.
- South Face Diagonal III 5.8 A0 - FA: Brian & Jonathan Smoot, November 2003. Sounds like a fun day of adventure climbing to get to the top of a cool, prominent formation.
The earliest known ascents of the Great White Throne weaved their way up the backside of the formation via third to easy fifth class scrambling. It is uknown when the true first ascent took place. On one of the first ascents by a white man a human skull was found on top, most likely from a successful climb that wasn't followed by a successful descent.
There's some decent cragging at the base of the Great White Throne.
Beta from SummitPost.
-Scotch on the Rocks - 5.8
-Box Elder Jam - 5.8+
-Free Bird - 5.9
-Rookie Crack - 5.9
-Grasshopper - 5.9+
-Rain - 5.9+
-Psychobolt - 5.10
-Crack of REM - 5.10
-Edge of Delight - 5.10 (2 pitches)
-One for the Road - 5.10a
-Illusion - 5.10a
-Fourplay - 5.11 (2 pitches)
-Twin Crack - 5.11a
-Nemesis - 5.11a
- Hammer and Sickle, VI A3+ - FA: Dan Stih and Ron Raimonde, September 1996.
There's some cragging routes in the area of the Weeping Rock parking area, including a David Breashears' route that is supposed to be very good.
- Beyond the Pale VI 5.11a A3 - FA: Mike Baker, Chris Bender (?) & Leslie Henderson, October 1996. Between Weeping Rock parking lot and Touchstone Wall.
Beta from SummitPost
- Cerberus Cragging - a bunch of cragging routes that are the highest quality single-pitch lines in Zion.
-Cave Route - 5.7- (1 pitch)
-No Holds Barred - 5.8 (40’)
-Cynthia’s Handjob - 5.9 (65’)
-Tails of Flails - 5.9 (100’)
-Aton/Allison/Stern - IV, 5.9-A0 (top of Cerberus)
-Touchstone Wall - IV, 5.9-C2 (8 pitches)
-Squeeze Play - 5.10a (60’)
-Cherry Crack - 5.10c (140’)
-Flip of the Coin - 5.10d (80’)
-The Fat’hedral - 5.10d (150’)
-Face-tastic 5.11 (100’)
-Scarlet Begonias - 5.11a (65’)
-Coconut Corner - III, 5.11a (4 Pitches)
-Fails of Power - 5.11b-c (70’)
-Intruder - 5.11c (65’)
-Electrica - 5.11c-d (120’)
-Dire Wolf - 5.12a-A0 (120’)
- Touchstone Wall IV 5.9 C2 - FA: Ron Olevsky, 1977. Classic trade route. A great route to fix and blast because 80% of it is moderate free climbing. Recently (beginning of '06) freed by Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem with a slight variation to the original aid line. Description and topo from High Fidelity Lounge.
- Coconut Corner III 5.10 - right of Touchstone on right side of chimney/gulley. First ascent by David Breashears, I think.
- Quest for Nothing III 5.11a, TD, BCR3+ (WI4), PDW - FA: Bob Samborski & Alex McAfee, October 2002. Located up gully right of Touchstone and head right.
- Allison, Aton, Stern Route IV 5.9 A0 - Definite adventure route.
- Magic Carpet Ride ???????
- Organ Grinder 5.9+ - FA: Billy Westbay, Mike Weiss, and Larry Derby, March 1973.
- Organasm C2 or 5.12b - FA: Mike Strassman and Ron Olevsky, August 1983. Description and topo from High Fidelity Lounge. Topo from BigWall.com.
- The Psyco Roof I 5.10 - FA: Jim Beyer May 9, 1979
- SE Chimney II 5.6 - FA: Jim Beyer & Courtney Simpkins did it on 11/78 but there was an unknown pin scar so there was an unknown first ascent.
Angels Landing - 14 routes on north face of Angels Landing proper, I believe.
See Alpinist #21 for a great topo of the north face of Angels Landing.
- Southeast Buttress (Jokers & Thieves) V 5.10 A3 - FA: Ken Cook & Galen Kirkwood, March 22, 1978. The only route I know of on the south face of Angels Landing, although Ron Olevsky has a project started on the far left side of the south face.
- On the south face of Angels Landing there is a Ron Olevsky project that has had ropes fixed on for a long time. Evidently, this route or a different Olvesky project on the south face has several pitches great free climbing up to the route's current high point. Supposedly, Olevsky finished a project on the south face but I don't know if it's the same climb, a different climb, or what.
- Northeast Buttress IV 5.11a R - FA: Mark Austin, Randy Aton, and Phil Haney, 1981, FFA: Paul Tureki (? or Conrad Anker?) - conflicting information from different sources. Great route, slightly adventurous.
- Pink Air (Death) - death route???
- Mostly American FA: Brian Bird and ??? Sounds hard.
- Swiss/American VI 5.10 A4 - FA: Xaver Bongard and John Middendorf, Oct. 19-22, 1991.
- Lowe Route (also called Original Route) V 5.10 A2 or 5.8 A2 - FA: Jeff Lowe and Cactus Bryan, September 1970. FFA: Mike Anderson, 5.13 in Nov (?) 2004. Topo from BigWall.com.
- Unknown route put up by some guy known as Silent Montana.
- Angel Hair V 5.9 A3 - FA: Dean Tschappat and James Dunn, 1974. No bolts placed on first ascent. A.k.a. Dunn Route. Freed in 2005 by Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem.
- Triple A VI 5.8 A2+
- Empty Pages 5.10 A4+ - FA: Dave Jones and Mark Pey, May 29-31, 1982.
- Lucifer's Ledges(?) - ???
- Archangel VI 5.8 A3+ - FA: Ron Olevsky solo, Oct. 1-8, 1978. I don't know if this still exists. Erased to create Prodigal Sun ??? , or it was the original climb that came before Prodigal Sun.
- Prodigal Sun IV 5.8 C2 - FA: Ron Olevsky solo, September 1981. Another cattle, errrr, trade route in Zion.
- Lost Angel V 5.10 A3 - FA: John Varco and Dave Littman, April 1999.
- Ball and Chain VI 5.10 A2+ - FA: Glenn Randall solo, Spring 1978. FFA: Brian McCray at 5.12+ in 2003(?) Goes clean at C2 (?).
- G-Money VI 5.9 A2+ - FA: Barry Ward and Alan Humphrey. I think this also goes clean now at C3 (?) but I could be wrong.
- Days of No Future VI 5.9 A2 (orA3+ according to Middendorf's web site) - FA: John Middendorf and Barry Ward, May 23-25, 1991. rumor that it goes clean?
- South of Heaven VI 5.8 A4+, 200 feet right of Days of No Future - FA: Brian McCray, Ammon McNeely, and Kurt Arend, 2003.
- Angeline V 5.9 A2 - FA: Ron Olevsky solo, March 1983. Location ?
- Treasure of the Gods V- 5.9 C1 - FA: Ron Olevsky solo, November 1994. Location?
- Lamb in Paradise IV 5.8 C1 - FA: Ron Olevsky solo, May 1996. Location ?
- The Megamahedral III 5.11 - FA: Dave Littman and Eric Draper, 1998. Sounds kind of wild and adventurous. Lots of wide climbing.
- Suburban Blondes IV 5.9 C2+ - FA: Scott Fischer and Ron Olevsky, April 1979. Topo from BigWall.com.
- Sheer Lunacy V 5.13 or 5.5 C2 - FA: Ron Olevsky solo, Aug. 1992. Great climb, a lot of free climbing and easy aid for normal people. Sometimes has the reputation of being difficult logistically with a bag and such but it's not so. Topo from BigWall.com - they also have a trip report and route photo.
- Looney Tunes - evidently this is a route between Sheer Lunacy and Lunar Ecstasy and it sounds adventurous. From Lunar Ecstasy you can see some bolts on a route just to the right of Sheer Lunacy which is most likely Looney Tunes. A topo is available at the Zion climbing shop.
- Lunar Ecstasy IV 5.10 C3 - FA: Brad Quinn and Linus Platt, 1992. Great climb with a lot of moderately hard aid. Topo from BigWall.com - they also have beta, a trip report and route photo.
- Dark Side of the Moon, A3 (?) - hard aid route to left of Moonlight. Featured on new poster available in gift shops in Zion/Springdale. Improbable looking line tha tis between Lunar Ecstasy and Moonlight Buttress. Shares the first two pitches of Moonlight then goes up into flared chimney and the blank looking face above. Topo at Zion climbing shop.
- Moonlight Buttress IV 5.9 C1 or 5.13 - FA: Jeff Lowe and Mike Weis, 1971. FFA: Johnny Woodward and Peter Croft, 1992. Another Zion crowded, or trade route. Topo from BigWall.com - also have beta and route photo.
- Whiteys on the Moon, A3 (?) - FA: Brian Bird and others. Right of Moonlight. Topo at Zion climbing shop.
- Angel's Takeoff - Bill Forrest and Bill March, April 1992.
- IdiOdyssey V 5.10 A2+ - FA: Brian Smoot & James Garrett, April 2002. Between Moonlight and Swoop Gimp.
- Tsunami IV+ 5.11 A2 - FA: Brad Quinn, Calvin Herbert, and Doug Byerly, March 1995.
- March-Forrest Chimney V 5.9 A2 - FA: Bill Forrest and Bill March, April/May 1978.
- Swoop Gimp or Be Dust VI 5.9 C3 - FA: Barry Ward and Alan Humphrey, 1992. Seems to be somewhat popular for a non-trade wall, which probably means it gets climbed a few times a year. Topo from BigWall.com - also have a trip report.
- Cordillera Dreams V 5.10 A2+ - FA: D. Suess and M. Hill, May 1997.
- Desert Shield IV 5.11+ C3 - FA: Eric Rasmussen and Chris Sircello, 1992. Topo from BigWall.com.
- Disco Inferno 5.8 C2+ - FA: Calder Stadford & ?? & John Middendorf. To the right of Desert Shield. one pitch of A3 through rotten roof otherwise pretty moderate. It's a sweet looking route that looks very similar to Desert Shield. 39 holes on route. Speed climbed by Ammon McNeely and Chris McNamara in winter of 05-06.
- F***ing Your Partner's Girl - ??? I was told in 2000 that there was a route left of Spaceshot with this name.
- Equinox IV 5.10+ -FA: Ron Olevsky and Mike Strassman, March 1984, FFA: Dave Jones. Jones tried to rename it Babes in the Sandbox but I guess the name didn't stick. This route is also sometimes called Vernal Equinox. Topo from BigWall.com.
- Moon Patrol V 5.9 A2 FA: Ron Olevsky, October 1984. This thing looks cool but it is quite dirty. To the left of Cosmic Trauma. I was told that I had probably done the 3rd or 4th ascent as of April 2005 although I think it has probably seen more ascents than that, although not many more. Doesn't need pins although it is spicey, as in desert sand style. Topo from BigWall.com.
-Cosmic Trauma V 5.9 C3 or A1 - Has gone clean at C3. Topo from BigWall.com.
- Spaceshot IV 5.10 C2 - - FA: Ron Olevsky and Dave Jones, November 1978. Freed by Mike and Mark Anderson in 2005. Topo from BigWall.com - also have trip report.
- Alpine Start I 5.9 - crack climb in left facing corner at start of Spaceshot.
- Karmic Edges I 5.11 (was rated 5.12b) - bolted face climb to the left of the second pitch of Spaceshot. Also need gear. FA: Paul Turecki, November 1989.
- Scarlet Mother, Scarlet Lady - small formations to west of Leaning Wall. A couple of short routes (1-2 pitches) ascend these mini towers.
On the left side of the Leaning Wall, left and below the upper pitches of Equinox are some new, short, multi-pitch free routes established by Brian Bird and others in the winter of 2005-06.
- Forbidden Corner VI 5.10 A4 - FA: Barry Ward & Walt Shipley, July 5-8, 1989
- Tourist Crack 5.9 - Super popular and quality crack climbing in a corner. Behind the Temple of Sinewava bathrooms.
- The Pulpit 5.9 A0 - goes free at 11+ or so, I think.
- The Pulpit Route (different than above?) 5.5 A1+ - crack to left of The Pulpit
- The Pulpette I 5.9 - Joede Schoeberlein & Mark Jackson, smaller spire next to Pulpit
- Monkeyfinger IV 5.9 C2 or 5.12 - FA: Ron Olevsky and Rob Schnelker, 1978. FFA: ( Not totally sure - McAfee guide says Mike O'Donnel and Craig Kenyon, 1989; another source says Drew Bedford, 1984). Another climb that is considered one of Zion's best free routes. An excellent route. Description and topo from High Fidelity Lounge.
- The Wrath of Rhan (sometimes seen as Wran -?)V 5.10 A3 - FA: Paul Turecki & Dave Jones, Oct. 25-26, 1988, first two pitches done by solo by Jones in 1985.
- Wages of Sin VI 5.10 A5 - FA: Dave Jones & Steve Chardon, Oct. 27-30, 1983
- Datura IV 5.9 A2 - FA: Jim Beyer solo
- The Not So Secret Show IV+ 5.10 A3 - FA: Todd Stephens, Tyler Phillips, & Troy Anderson, Oct. 1999
- Soul Craft - left of Monkeyfinger
- new route by Brian McCray and Kurt Arend left of Monkeyfinger. Starts up Soul Craft and then heads up right. April 1-2, 2005.
- The Lizard Route
- Mellow Dudester
- Dr. Who
- Jerry's Kids