chossmonkey.com Blog

I posted this about six months ago but I realized that it’s the most fitting “butt shot of the week” possible. One of my students had some fun with Photoshop at my expense.

Choss Monkey Dirtbag Gear Review Disclaimer: I haven’t done any gear reviews here because honestly, I think it’s pretty stupid. Stupid, you ask? In short, it’s my belief that the outdoor industry and many or most outdoor “adventurers” are giant hypocrites. On one hand, companies and people extol the virtues of buying organic, buying sustainable, and saving the environment but in reality, buying crap in general is what’s bad for the environment. It doesn’t matter if it was produced with solar power or made from organic cotton. Hence, gear reviews, in my opinion, only encourage people to buy stuff that they either don’t need or could do without. Do you really need the piece of gear that’s a few ounces lighter to replace your old piece of gear? Think about how many people were doing bad-ass things ten, twenty, thirty, and fifty years ago or more with what we would consider “substandard” gear. That’s why here, on Choss Monkey, I’m going to tell you about how you can still be “sick” with less.

Should you buy a headlamp with a rechargeable battery? At first thought, yes. But wait.

All headlamps can be rechargeable with the purchase of rechargeable batteries. Well, isn’t that just buying more stuff? Yes, but rechargeable batteries and the charger unit are multi-purpose so you can use those batteries for your ipod speakers, your Motorola radios or whatever other piece of gear you own.

I’ve been using rechargeable batteries in all of my gear for years because it saves money over the long run and causes less impact on the environment. I have a Rayovac battery charger that came with an AC plug and a DC plug. That makes it super handy for use at home or on the road. It can charge 4 batteries at a time, AAA or AA. You can buy the charger units at any number of places such as Target, Sears, REI, or online. They typically run about $15 to $25, depending on if they come with batteries. A package of 4 rechargeable batteries costs $8 or more, depending on where you buy them and if you buy some of the new models they are now featuring.

Well, is it bright enough? Yes. One great thing about rechargeables compared to traditional batteries is that you can charge them up after every long climb you do, guaranteeing that you have a super bright headlamp every time you’re looking for that rappel station in the dark.
So, instead of buying a new headlamp, just convert your existing headlamp to rechargeable by buying a charger and batteries that will last for years. And, to add a little “walk to my talk”, if you’re reading this and considering buying a new rechargeable headlamp, email me (mike.schneiter@gmail.com) and I’ll send you one of my old headlamps with rechargeable batteries that is still in fine, working condition (I probably only have a couple to spare, so first come, first serve). I’ve received a few free headlamps in the past few years from races and other places and I’d rather share one of my extras than see someone buy something they don’t have to.

Coming soon: More Choss Monkey Dirtbag Gear Reviews about power inverters, fixing jackets, and more.

Joy, free soloing high on the Grand Teton, Upper Exum route.

One of my goals for this summer is completing a 24-hour ascent of the Grand Traverse in the Tetons. My wife and I share an interest in speedy alpine climbing ascents as it combines running and climbing, two of our strengths and loves, not to mention preference for being in the alpine realm. I ran across this article by Rolando Garibotti, concerning his record setting attempt on the Grand Traverse. He describes how it was the last time he ran due to severe hip pain caused by dysplasia. We are fortunate enough to be currently running marathons and ultramarathons with little or no pain in our joints and this summer may be great timing for us to complete the Grand Traverse as well as other goals like the Evolution Traverse in the Sierras. This spring I have been climbing stronger and running more miles than I have been in years. Hence, it is an understatement to say that we are super excited for what the summer holds.
By the way, here’s an old story (2006) of our one day ascent of the Grand Teton via the Upper Exum.

Big wall climbing is always good for some butt shots. Here’s a good one from my wife’s recent ascent of Prodigal Sun.

Here are a bunch of fun photos from the past couple weeks. We’ve had great weather for climbing and other outdoor pursuits.

Who’s that sexy dude on the banner? The 5Point Film Festival, held May 7-10, was outstanding.

Joe climbing The Ride For Life (5.11c) at a “secret”, soon-to-be-revealed location.

Steep pulls on good stone, The Ride For Life.

Again, The Ride For Life. Destined for classic status.

Amy climbing Stopped Short (5.11a).

Joy climbing May and Everything After (5.11a) at Thompson Creek.

Gorgeous Thompson Creek.

Joe climbing Johnny’s First Time (5.12a).

Amy surrounded by a sea of gorgeous stone on Laeser Vision, (5.12a).

Oh, my wife, my sweet beloved wife. She’s a climber and rock solid but she doesn’t like climbing new routes. She likes the nice, friendly, clean routes. And, I don’t blame her one bit. So, it was with great excitement that I persuaded her to meet me at one of my latest “project” crags for a first ascent party. I had prepped, cleaned, bolted and sussed four routes and started on a few others. On Friday afternoon, she scooted out after work to the latest crag, affectionately known as the Quartzite Wasteland for some belay duty and climbing on my new routes.

Charcoal Burger Daydream

We started out on a fun, juggy 5.7 arete. I didn’t spend a lot of time climbing it so she wasn’t super impressed. Okay, I thought, hopefully the next one will make up for it. Unfortunately, the next one also wasn’t super clean and it was a lot harder, about mid-5.11, maybe harder. I blew my first attempt at the send but quickly lowered and went back up for a second go. When it was her time I was nervous because for me (6′2″) the crux move is a desperately long reach from a large pinch. I wasn’t sure how she (5′5″) would do and if she would just scold me for putting up a “tall man’s climb.” Instead, she had a great time and spent time working out her own sequence.

El Lagarto Borracho

Next up, were two long routes, both 100 feet with a good mix of gear and bolts. I’m always nervous about what other people will think of my “projects.” I mean, what if they suck and they end up being a waste of time, bolts, and cleaning? And, considering that my wife handles our checkbook you could see about 100 dollars of bolts in that cliff, I was a little nervous about my “spending habits.” Thankfully, I sent each and both got the big stamp of approval from my wife, and “three stars” at that! Of course, I didn’t ask her if it was 3 out of 10 or 3 out of 4, but I’ll assume it was the latter. And, she helped me name the routes, which is always the hardest part: Interstate Love Song, Twig and Berries, Charcoal Burger Daydream, and El Lagarto Borracho (”The Drunken Lizard). With those routes completed, it brought my FA total for the year to 14. Can’t wait to share this area with others and will try to do so soon! (Need to work on a better approach.)
Afterwards, we gobbled up burgers, fries, and shakes from the Charcoal Burger (hence, the name) with dirty hands, completing one of my favorite date nights ever!

Because I can’t resist sharing this “classic” climbing scene from Hollywood. Drumroll please, the opening scene of The Vertical Limit. Then, I promise I’m doing with the Hollywood climbing thing….for now.

This week it’s been fun to revisit Hollywood’s portrayal of rock climbing in movies. Here’s a great glam-rock music video of David Lee Roth’s “Just Like Paradise.” Check out him swinging around on El Cap and doing the tyrolean on Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite. Classic stuff. Also, check out the most recent episode of The Simpsons on Fox on Demand, Mona Leaves-a. Homer does some climbing in a great episode. (Sorry, I can’t provide a direct link.)

Butt Shot of the Week courtesy of Sarah Selling.

Check out SplitterChoss.com, where they’ve compiled a list of the top 5 Hollywood climbing movies of all time.

Great stuff but here’s one more notable Hollywood portrayal of climbing. The 1981 James Bond classic, For Your Eyes Only, has a great climbing scene in it. I’ve always been a Bond junkie and For Your Eyes Only is one of my favorites. I won’t comment on all of the funny stuff (check out the shoelace prusik!), watch it yourself: